Off-White Fall 2020 Menswear Collection by Virgil Abloh

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“Look Number Zero,” as Virgil Abloh referred to it, was originally going to be a dress shirt that read Nonfiction until he decided at the last moment to have a T-shirt printed with the statement I support young black businesses. Wearing it was Cartier Williams, a young tap dancer from Washington, D.C. whose percussive and emotive movements replaced the usual pre-show recording.

“Usually my ethos has been to find a quote from someone else to speak for me that gives context,” Abloh explained backstage. “But now, instead of finding someone else’s words, these are my own words—they’re like orchestrated storytelling.” Abloh has spent seasons re-contextualizing words; not only are they as fundamental to Off-White branding as street signage, they’re how he has communicated a specific high/low novelty—from Jenny Holzer toPretty Woman. After Abloh’s few months of rest, he said his challenge was “to offer things that aren’t just surface level. Streetwearis a term that is just used to make things flat.”

Indeed, a more developed feeling came through in this collection—not just because it featured attractive trousers with accordion pleating along the sides where athletic stripes might have been. And not just because it included a fantasy for sneaker fans everywhere: Off-White’s reimagining of the Air Jordan 5 with its grayscale scheme, black “shoelaces,” and side medallion, which can be carved out with an X-Acto knife, as Abloh has done to his pair. But because it showed a deeper sensitivity than we have seen from him in the past. See the images below!

Source: Vogue Runway | https://www.vogue.com

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